By the age of 3, 80% of pets have some form of periodontal disease. When plaque begins to build up it is soft, but over time it becomes calcified and makes it easier for more plaque to accumulate. The bacteria and tartar eat away at the teeth and gums, causing lesions, infections, and even bone loss. Plaque then begins to build under the gum line, eroding the tooth root and other support structures. This can lead to tooth loss and abscesses which go unseen, but cause acute pain to your pet. Bacteria is swallowed and enters the bloodstream through the damaged gums, making its way to the heart and other organs. Untreated periodontal disease can lead to kidney and liver disease, and heart problems.

Symptoms of severe dental problems in your pet can include excessive drooling or licking, red or bleeding gums, pawing at the mouth, trouble chewing food, loose teeth, tumors on the gums, facial swelling (especially under the eyes), and bad breath. Your veterinarian will examine your dog or cat’s mouth and look for any problems at their regular wellness exam, but if you notice any of these signs at other times, it’s best to set an appointment to have them evaluated.

When we prepare your pet for a dental cleaning, blood tests are done to evaluate all the systems that may be affected by dental disease and to assess your pet’s suitability for anesthesia. Your veterinarian will do a full physical exam. Once sedated, all teeth are scaled and polished to prevent future plaque buildup and the dental technician charts the appearance of all teeth for future reference. Pockets in the gum, where it has separated from the tooth, are measured and we examine the teeth under the gum thoroughly, where most problems are. Dental x-rays are done to check for abscesses, bone loss, and other problems that can’t be seen with the naked eye. If any teeth need to be extracted, the veterinarian removes them and assesses the site. The vet will communicate with you and let you know of any serious findings. We also take before and after pictures, to show the severity of the problem and the improvement from cleaning.

After a dental, your pet’s doctor will advise you what aftercare you will need to provide. This may include antibiotics, anti-plaque rinses, regular brushing, a prescription diet, special treats or chews, and regular brushing. While gingivitis and infection can be reversed, bone loss and pockets cannot. Make sure to maintain your pet’s healthy teeth once they have been cleaned to avoid pain and tooth loss. Regular exams and yearly dental cleanings will keep their mouth in its best possible shape.

Here is a great video from the AVMA with Dr. Sheldon Rubin demonstrating how to brush your pet’s teeth.

We have good news and bad news about the cat who was left on our street.  She is spayed, and has a microchip (though it is unregistered).  Unfortunately, she also tested positive for FIV.  That is pretty discouraging, but it’s not a death sentence.  Feline leukemia (FeLV) has a much more grave prognosis.  For now we’re going to build her a cozy house outside and put some nice bedding in it and we’ll keep feeding her.  But I thought I’d use this opportunity to share some facts about FIV with you.

A positive FIV test may or may not mean that a cat is actually infected with the virus that causes feline AIDS.  The test checks for FIV antibodies, but not for the actual virus.  This may mean several things: a cat may have the virus, it may have received antibodies through a mother’s milk, or it may have been previously vaccinated against FIV.  If the medical history is unknown, there is no way to tell if a cat had the vaccine or not – if it has, it will always test positive for FIV.  Retesting is a good idea, since they may just have received antibodies from their mother to protect them.  We don’t know the age of our cat, but she is young.  We will have her tested again later.

Cats are much less likely to develop AIDS-like symptoms than people who carry the HIV virus and can live full, healthy lives.  They may become more susceptible to infections, but the main concern is transmitting the disease to other cats.  It is contagious, but only through deep bite wounds or scratches, or mating.  If a cat is fixed the likelihood of transmission is much lower, as (obviously) there will be no mating, but also neutered cats are much less territorial and therefore much less likely to fight aggressively.  Sharing food bowls or litter boxes won’t infect other cats, and people can’t catch the virus just as cats can’t catch HIV.  (It is, after all, feline immunodeficiency virus).

Of course having a positive FIV test will make it harder to find Gingy (my 4-year-old named her) a place in a shelter or someone’s home.  She would have to go to a shelter that has an FIV community, or to a home that has no other cats or only cats who are FIV positive.  Our cats haven’t had a newcomer in 9 years and judging by the “greeting” they’ve been doing when they see her on the porch, they won’t welcome her into our home with open arms.  I don’t want our four to become infected, especially since three of them have ongoing health issues.  We’ll take good care of her, and as much as I dislike the idea of having an outdoor-only cat I don’t see much alternative at this point.

What would you do?  Do any of you have cats who are FIV positive?  Are these facts surprising?  Let me know in the comments.

A common bit of advice is to use an over-the-counter medicine for pain in dogs and cats.  Unfortunately, aspirin, ibuprofen/advil, and acetaminophen/tylenol can cause stomach ulcers, and kidney or liver disease.  Never give any medication to your pet unless your veterinarian advises it.  Even if given in doses correct for their weight, medicine that isn’t approved for pets can make them very ill.  Their anatomy is much different than ours and doesn’t handle things like our bodies do.

Urinary problems are commonly dismissed as being due to age.  If your pet is drinking or urinating more frequently, it can be a symptom of a number of problems.  If your cat or dog is having accidents when they’ve always been great with their house-training, they may be trying to let you know there is a problem.  Diabetes, kidney issues, urinary tract infections and bladder crystals are all underlying diseases that can present with such symptoms.  The only way to tell what is really going on is to have your vet examine, test and diagnose the cause.

Weight loss or gain is another thing that shouldn’t be ignored.  It isn’t a symptom of just getting older.  My own cat who has a voracious appetite began losing weight, even though she was still eating normally.  She was also pestering us a lot, getting in our faces and mewing. I had her bloodwork checked, and she is hyperthyroid.  She is doing well on medication, but if I hadn’t had her checked we wouldn’t know what was going on.  Diabetes, dental disease, dietary problems, and thyroid issues can cause weight fluctuations and all need to be treated as early as it can be detected.

Most of all, you know your pet.  If they are acting differently or having symptoms that are out of the ordinary, speak with your vet.  It’s best to catch any problems as soon as possible so that you can begin treatment.  Many times they will try to let us know when something is going on, whether it’s by urinating in the wrong spot or by being extra needy.  Listen to them.

Now that temps have dropped and some leaves are starting to change we can relax and know that summer has bid us adieu.  Having a respite from the heat is nice, but we should keep in mind our furry friends.  Though they have coats on all the time, they still need consideration in colder weather.

Pets who like to nap on cool surfaces in the summer may not enjoy it so much now.  Make sure there is bedding available for your buddy to snuggle on when he’s tired.  Make sure that if he gets wet, he is dried quickly.  He will still need plenty of water to drink.  Just because it’s not hot, it doesn’t mean he’s not thirsty!

Antifreeze is a big danger this time of year.  Dogs and cats both think it’s a tasty treat, but it is extremely toxic.  Keep an eye on your pet when outdoors, and make sure she doesn’t drink anything from the ground that looks suspicious.  Antifreeze is a bright green color and pools where cars have parked and leaked it from their engines.  Symptoms of ethylene glycol poisoning include nausea or vomiting, increased thirst, tremors or twitching, and wobbly or uncoordinated movement.  Portable heaters are also a hazard – never leave a pet unsupervised in a room with a space heater, and keep an eye on them around fireplaces too.

When the holidays come around, there is a whole new list of things to worry about!  Alcohol and chocolate are abundant, but make sure they’re all accounted for so that your best four-legged friend doesn’t regret overindulging.  Many plants are poisonous.  Poinsettias are rumored to be toxic, but aren’t as bad as they’ve been made out.  They won’t kill your plant-chewing cat, but they can cause an upset stomach.  The best rule is to keep all vegetation out of reach, so that even if they’re not poisonous you’re not cleaning up half-digested plant bits from all corners of the house.  Even when not fatal many greens cause vomiting and diarrhea, and that’s never fun for any of us.  For cats who like grass, there is cat grass and catnip which are both fine for them to nibble in moderation.  These can both be found in pet stores.

Decorations can be hazardous too.  Electric cords, candles, and glass trinkets or ornaments all bring out the mischievous side of our pets.  Tinsel can be especially bad for cats who like strings.  If eaten, it can become tangled in the stomach or intestine and require surgery to be safely removed.  Tree-climbing cats should be kept away from Christmas trees, or there could be a very large mess to clean up!

Fall and winter are great seasons.  Just keep a few things in mind, and your and your pets can enjoy them with fewer troubles.

When you’re faced with a veterinary emergency, time can work against you.  The most important thing is to get your pet to an animal clinic.  In some cases there are things you can do to prepare for or while transporting an injured dog or cat.

Your first priority should be the safety of yourself and your pet.  When injured, even the most loving animal may bite out of fear or pain.  Keep this in mind when trying to pick them up; a towel can be very useful to put over them for warmth and to keep your arms covered.  Wrap bandaging can also be tied gently but firmly around a dog’s mouth as a soft muzzle.  Please don’t run into traffic to help an injured animal.  If you get hit by a car too, you won’t be any help to anyone.  A few years ago, a veterinarian in Tennessee was killed trying to rescue an injured animal in traffic.

You should have your veterinarian’s number handy – Briarcliff has a technician available 24 hours a day, so that you can speak to someone even when we’re closed.  They may be able to advise you on the need for emergency care after hours.  The number for the closest 24-hour emergency clinic is also good to have on hand.

A first aid kit specifically for pets is invaluable.  Here are several essential things to include:

• Bandaging supplies – nonstick pads, soft padding to cushion a wound, and wrap type bandage (self-sticking, such as Vetwrap, is best)
• Scissors
• A digital thermometer to be used rectally
• Benadryl (diphenhydramine) can be used in dogs for things like bee stings – dosage is 1 mg per pound of body weight every 8 hours as needed (meaning a 25-lb. dog would get 1 25-mg. tablet, a 50-lb. dog would get 2 25 mg. tablets, etc.).
• Water – this can be essential for cooling down a pet who has overheated.  (Don’t use ice water as it will constrict blood vessels and slow their ability to cool.)
• The phone number for poison control.  Georgia has a free service you can call, at 404 616 9000, or 1 800 222 1222.  The ASPCA has one that is focused on animals, but there is a charge of $65: 1 888 426 4435.  There is also the Pet Poison Hotline, at 1 800 213 6680, and the cost for that is $35.  If your pet has gotten into something that was purchased, keep the packaging with you.  The hotlines and the veterinarian will have an easier time treating them if they know exactly what chemicals they’re dealing with.

Staying calm can be very hard in such a situation, but it is very important.  Our cat once sneaked into the dryer, and it was on for about a minute before we realized.  The first thing I thought to do was take his temperature – 105.  Then I panicked and was no help whatsoever.  Even though I’d seen pets with higher temps, I hadn’t seen one of mine that high.  We took him to the emergency clinic and once they cooled him down with fluids he was fine, other than a bruised tail.  He doesn’t get in the dryer anymore.  But I was upset that I got so flustered and couldn’t help.

Another useful resource is the Atlanta Animal Ambulance.  They can transport your pet to the veterinarian quickly and safely, and spare you from having to drive while emotional and upset.  Their phone number is 678 439 K911, and the website is http://frogstodogs.com/index.php?id=35.

Common sense things, such as applying pressure to a bleeding wound and not running into a busy street to help an injured pet, should also be considered.  Call the authorities if there is a situation you can’t handle, and if you are in any doubt about whether you need medical assistance, call your veterinarian’s office.  We are always happy to help!

An unfortunate fact is that pets tend to be neglected once there’s a human addition at home.  Newborns demand so much time from, and permit so little sleep for, their parents that it’s no small wonder.  Even if you and your pets run on a strict schedule, with feedings, walks, and sometimes medications, you’ll come to find that a newborn cannot be adapted to your schedule.  You just have to adapt to theirs.  But after a few months it really does get better, and pets can have attention lavished on them again.  They won’t hold it against you.

A recent study by Flexcin International has shown that families with new babies are the ones whose pets are becoming obese.  While pets will certainly remind you if you’ve forgotten to feed them, they may not demand as much play time, or you may not have the time or energy to give in to such demands.  After my first baby, I would frequently forget to eat lunch, much less worry about my cats’ level of exercise.  This goes hand in hand with the treats that rain down from high chairs while baby learns to feed herself.  It’s just so much easier to let the four-legged vacuum take care of that mess.

Behavior problems are another concern.  Many new parents are worried that Fido or Fluffy are going to react badly to a baby.  Some even resort to getting rid of their pets.  Shelters are already overrun, and it’s so sad to see an old family member kicked out to make room for a new one.  There is a program called Dogs and Storks that is geared specifically towards expecting families who have dogs, and helps prepare the household for a new life with baby and dog.  While safety should be a top concern, it doesn’t mean that there can’t be room at home for both.

I believe that children who grow up with pets are better for it.  If taught correctly they will learn to respect and love animals.  My 3-year-old knows that if she’s not gentle with our cats she’ll get a warning, and if she doesn’t let up they will give her a nip.  Since I taught them to be gentle with her when she was born, they’ve never hurt her.  But it also teaches her that she needs to respect all creatures and their personal space.

A new study published in the journal Clinical & Experimental Allergy suggests that being exposed to dogs and cats as an infant does not increase your chances of developing allergies to these pets.  In fact, its results show that a child is about 50% less likely to develop an allergy if they live in the same house with a cat or dog before the age of one.  Yet another reason to keep your pet around when baby arrives!

What has been your experience with pets and babies?  Have you had aggression problems (from either the pet or the child) that couldn’t be solved?

Photo credit: Jacobim Mugatu

Anal glands have several functions.  One is to lubricate their behind, making it easier to pass stool.  They are also used to release a scent.  Some animals use it to mark their territory.  Skunks, of course, are known for the scent theirs produce.  Possums use it to convince potential predators that they are dead and rotting when they “play possum”.  The odor produced by anal glands is particularly unpleasant to humans.

The fluid inside the glands can be released when your pet is scared or stressed.  This can lead to unfortunate consequences in the veterinary industry when dealing with a frightened animal.  When I tried to explain what they smell like to my husband, I told him that it was like eau de poop – the smell of excrement, but concentrated into a very potent liquid, and easy to differentiate from stool.

If you’re fortunate, you’ll never notice your pet’s anal glands.  They can develop problems, however.  Infections and abscesses can develop if they aren’t emptying properly.  Sometimes animals need help expressing them, but may need medications if a serious problem occurs.  If you notice your pet scooting, licking their hind area excessively, or if you see any swelling or redness on either side of the anus, take them to your veterinarian.  It is better to treat them early, before an abscess develops or the infection ruptures.

Have you had any problems with your pet’s anal glands?  Are you glad you know about them, or so so sad that you had to experience such things?

scooting dog

mmmmmm.....photo by Michelle Tribe

Working at a vet, you see some strange stuff.  Some of the oddest things we see are what pets will eat.  There are certain items you know to keep out of their reach, but sometimes they’ll devour objects you wouldn’t think they’d be interested in.

Dogs are often the culprits.  One Golden kept eating his mom’s pantyhose, and had several exploratory surgeries to have them removed.  We’ve seen a Boxer that ate about seven (new) tampons.  One dog had an affinity for eating rocks.  Dr. South has removed a mini tennis ball and sandal leather from canine stomachs.  In vet school, she had a dog who had eaten Gorilla Glue, which hardened and expanded once it got to the stomach.  They had to make a large incision, but it was removed and the pet did fine.

Cats are known to eat certain things: strings, plants, plastic.  Even though they probably don’t taste good, it’s a good idea to keep these types of things out of their reach so you don’t end up with a situation where they’re sick or blocked.  If a cat has eaten a string and is unable to pass it, take her to the vet immediately.  Linear foreign bodies can cause a serious problem in their intestines.  If you see the string coming out of either end, do not pull on it or trim it.  It may be caught on something, and pulling it can make things worse.  Don’t trim it so that your vet can see what they’re dealing with.  Also keep in mind that strings or thread can get wrapped around the base of their tongue.  If he’s acting strange and pawing at his mouth, drooling or licking excessively, try to lift his tongue to see if there is a string attached.  Then take him to the vet, and let them know what you saw.

My cats eat things you wouldn’t expect.  One loves to eat tomatoes, so we can’t leave them out in the fruit basket.  It’s a good thing we don’t use plastic grocery bags when we shop anymore, because he’ll chew on those all day and night.  Another one likes eating clothes, and we had to have him scoped to remove the sleeves from my nightgown that he chewed off and swallowed.

The weirdest thing I remember seeing in my eight years as a tech was the chicken who had eaten her owner’s pearl earring.  It was a family heirloom, and she really wanted it back.  We could see it in her wattle on x-ray.  Unfortunately, there was nothing we could do to get it out.  I don’t know what ever happened to that earring.

What weird things do your pets eat?  Do you have to keep certain items out of their reach when you’re gone?  Have they had surgery because of their strange appetite?

When your vet examines your cat for such a problem, they will first want to rule out a medical problem.  Urinary tract problems can include inflammation or infection, as well as bladder stones or crystals.  When urination is painful, they will associate the litter box with the pain, and avoid it.  Underlying conditions, such as diabetes or kidney disease, can also cause cats to urinate more, which may lead them to urinate in places other than the litter box.  Generally a physical exam and lab work can check for these.  Blood work and a urine sample may be taken to identify the problem and decide on a course of treatment.

If medical issues are ruled out, the cause may be behavioral.  Changes in environment can cause problems like this.  Major issues that can cause your cat to act out include a move, an addition to the family, a new pet, or separation from an owner.  To be sure that they have enough spots to choose from, have a litter box for each cat, plus one.  Make sure the boxes are in convenient places, and not in an area of the house that the cats do not frequent.  Daily scooping will prevent the cat turning up his nose at a messy litter box, and completely emptying the boxes every few weeks will keep them fresh.  Another tipe is to add a cup of baking soda to the bottom of the litter pan before you put the litter in, and it will stay fresh longer.

Briarcliff’s Dr. Janice Floyd recommends using under-bed storage containers as litter boxes, but not under the bed of course.  They are nice and roomy, but shallow enough that geriatric cats won’t have a problem getting in and out.  Some cats are picky about what litter is used, and most seem to prefer fine textured unscented litter, like the clumping kind.  Other cats will object to having a plastic liner in the box.

A friend told me recently that her (female) cat was wizzing in the toaster.  I didn’t know she could do that!  She’s known for behavioral problems, but I advised her to see the vet anyway, in case there was something else going on.  We found one of our cats peeing in the bathtub the night before I had my second child.  Good timing, sir!  It turns out that he has bladder crystals, but we’re treating him with medication and a special diet, and he’s much better.  I’m glad we didn’t find it after I had the baby, because we may have chalked it up to him being upset with the change in family dynamics.

Inappropriate urination can be quite frustrating, but before getting angry with your cat, speak with your vet.  She could be suffering from an underlying disease, or it could be that the litter boxes need to be freshened more often.  Either way, it’s much better to have them checked than to pass it off as a cranky kitty.

*Note: Dr. Floyd recommends the Cornell Feline Health Center.  They have great information on housesoiling and other feline issues.  The website is: http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/

Here is another great resource, and the beginning of a series of articles on the subject: http://www.petmd.com/blogs/thedailyvet/jcoates/urinary/2011/may/feline_urinary_issues_a_modern_epidemic

photo by Laura Bittner

1. There is a tool from the American Animal Hospital Association that searches the databases of several participating microchip manufacturers to find owner information.  The site is www.petmicrochiplookup.org. This created a central place to input the microchip number and search for a found pet’s owner.

2. Microchips can’t fall off, like a collar can.  They have been known to occasionally move around under a pet’s skin, but will remain intact.  A full scan of the pet should find the microchip number even if it’s moved.

3. Having a microchip implanted is no more painful than a normal injection.  The needle is a little larger than injection needles in order for the microchip to pass through it, but the procedure does not require sedation.  It only takes a few seconds, so if your pet is uncomfortable, at least it’s over quickly.

4. There are different types of microchips that work on different frequencies.  Most shelters and veterinarian’s offices now have scanners that can read all of them to ensure that if a microchip is present, it will be found.  Found pets are automatically checked for microchips when they are brought in to one of these facilities.

5. While tattoos can be used for identification purposes, the practice has been eclipsed by microchipping.  Someone who finds a dog won’t usually check for a tattoo, and they can fade or be covered by hair if it is not kept trimmed.  Although owners can register their pet’s tattoo, there is no centralized database for the information.

6. If you are having a surgical procedure done on your pet, such as a neuter, a microchip can be placed without your pet ever knowing about it!

7. A 2009 study showed that dogs who have microchips are returned to their owners almost twice as often as those who don’t, and cats who have them are returned nineteen times as often as cats who don’t.  (Yes, nineteen times as often.)  Most of the time, pets who had microchips but were not returned did not have their current information registered.  That means that owners either didn’t initially register when they had the microchip placed, or didn’t update their information when it changed.

8. Microchips do not replace identification or rabies tags.  Vaccine information is not transmitted by the microchip.

9. The current technology does not track your pet.  Microchips use Radio Frequency ID technology.  When a scanner is passed over the microchip, radiowaves send back a number to the scanner.  The person that has found the number then enters it into the database to find the owner’s information.

10. Side effects of microchip placement are rarely reported.  The British Small Animal Veterinary Association keeps track of reports of problems related to microchips.  Since 1996, There have only been 391 adverse reactions reported, out of over 4 million microchip placements.  The microchip moving from its original site was the problem reported most often.  More severe side effects, including tumors, were reported, but only in a handful of cases.

There is a minimal annual fee to be registered with the manufacturer’s database which varies by company.  Considering the much higher rate of return of pets, the small cost is easily justified.  The benefits of having your pet microchipped far outweigh the small chance of side effect.  If you have any questions or concerns about having a microchip placed, be sure to talk to your veterinarian.  They are the experts!